Recently while visiting the island of Ulleong-do, I had the opportunity to visit Nari Basin, a beautiful valley hidden away high up in the mountains.

Getting off the bus at Nari Basin
But what exactly is Nari Basin? The name roughly translates to ‘flat crater area’ and is the result of a giant volcanic eruption over 9000 years ago which caused a ‘caldera’ (or unusual flat area for everyone without a Geography degree).

A view of the mountains in Nari Basin, Ulleong-do Island.
We were told on our tour that we were being taken to a traditional village over an hour away. In all honesty, I rolled my eyes at the thought – I have been in Korea going on two years and have seen my fair share of traditional temples. Was it really necessary to drive for an hour to see yet another one? My slightly jaded view was that once you have seen one temple in Korea, you have seen them all. (I realize this was quite a spoiled outlook). Despite my rolling eyes, the entire bus did not of course stop and turn around for me and I was left pleasantly surprised with what I eventually got to see.

Walking around Nari Basin on Ulleong-do Island.
Nari Basin, which is located on the North side of the island, is extremely hard to get too. It requires an incredibly sturdy bus or car (little Chevy Sparks like mine need not apply). There were times on the bus where we were driving up hill at an almost 90 degree angle. Occasionally we would idly round a sharp corner, and all 50 passengers would hold their breaths and exhale and cheer in delight when we came out ok on the other side. The bus driver received a full round of applause once we made back down the mountain. I heard a girl cheer “land!!” as we got out of the bus.

The view coming into the valley from the bus. Its a little shaky - from the bumpy ride down and possibly from my nerves as well. 
 Once we finally arrived, the valley was absolutely beautiful. It was an unusually completely flat area nestled between some fairly high peaks. Our tour guide told us that a grand total of 30 people lived in this area and used the volcanic soil to farm. The school, which is at the bottom of the mountain, has only 2 students and 5 teachers - quite the morning commute. I saw possibly two inhabitants beyond our tour group the entire time I was there. Compared to bustling cities like Busan or Daegu, this little piece of Eden was quiet and untouched.

A map of Nari Basin.
One of the more interesting things we got to see was the ‘Tumakjip’ ( or traditional houses). These are homes that Korean people lived in over 250 years ago before things like plumbing and electricity. The houses which are made of beach tree and soil, help to self-control temperature, keeping the interior cold in summer and warm in winter.  One thing that I will say, is that I felt that the bathroom, which clearly had no plumbing or even a lid to cover the contents, was entirely too close to the main house.  Although I can see the convenience of a long drop about 3 steps from the room you sleep in, I also feel that it might be an extremely bad idea from a smell point of view. I assume that the entire family would have known about it if one of its members had gotten a stomach bug. However, I suppose the alternative would have been to dig a hole next to a bush, so maybe beggars can’t be choosers.

The toilet
The 3 steps between the bathroom and bedrooms.
 Traditional homes in Nari Basin.
Traditional homes or 'Tumakjip'.
The kitchen area made of a dug out soil and clay pots
Taking photos around the traditional village. A church in the distance -set up for 30 people. I figure with such a small congregation they must really notice if you skip a Sunday.
Although the area is really difficult to reach, I would recommend Nari Basin as a stop for anyone visiting Ulleong-do Island. If you’re looking for a serene and quiet place to drink pumpkin Makkoli (pumpkin rice wine) – Nari Basin is your place!

Once in the valley - we got to try the local home made Pumpkin flavoured makkoli ( rice wine).
Korea has a massive make up industry that prides itself on offering affordable, high quality make up to women. In fact the Korean Times states that skin care and beauty exports have increased by 1500% over the last 15 years.  In a country that is fairly image obsessed with one of the highest plastic surgery rates in the world, its no surprise that make up is king.


Recently I asked a number of native teachers what they felt were the best and most affordable  make up products in Korea for foreign complexions.  Here's what they thought:

Foundation

Nature Republics BB came out as a winner for foreign complexions, I myself use their BB Cermid cream as it provides good coverage without feeling like you are 'wall papering' your face. It also keeps my skin relatively well moisturized, contains an SPF of 25 and is extremely easy to apply and blend.
11, 130 w ($11)

Foreigners with darker complexions complained that they had to search for months before they could find a foundation that matched their skin tone in Korea. Many agreed that they had to have foundation sent from overseas stores, simply to find a color that matched. However, Nature Republic's CC Super Origin Cream was suggested as one of the better option as it comes out a white liquid and tints to match your skin tone as you blend it.  It also does not have a whitening component to the cream that is so often found in other products. 14,000 w ($13)



Mascara

A number of foreigners as well as my co-teacher swore by the 'Super Cara' mascara by Holika Holika, as it does the same job as Mac or Loreal - but at a fraction of the price. The mascara boldens and lengthens without the lashes clumping together. It is also easy to wash off with remover.  Holika Holika also carries a few other mascaras in the Super Cara line, 
 7,900 w ($7)


 

Liquid liner

My Black Liquid Art Pen by  Missha came out tops as an easy to find and inexpensive Korean alternative. Many foreigners argued that it was borderline impossible to find an eyeliner that was dark enough, easy to apply and lasted through out the day on the Korean market. So often other products ran dry, came off too easily or the applicator wand was too small. However, the liquid liner by Missha seems to beat the odds at 15, 500 w ($15) 






Eye shadow and Lipstick

If your looking for cheaper lipsticks and eye shadows, Etude House is the place to go. Considered one of the cheaper make up lines on the market, Etude has an array of funky colours and shades to pick from. A tip for eye shadow shopping is to pick a few individual shades and ask the assistant to put it into a pallet for you. It will only set you back another 2 or 3000 won ($ 3) but will keep all your favorite shades together in one easy to use container.
Eye shadow at  3500 w ($3)

Blusher

Need a spruce of pink on the cheeks? An affordable option is The Faceshop's Cushion Blusher. The blusher comes with a pillow for dabbing and runs in a couple of different shades. For my personal complexion Coral is the best tint.  5,900 w ($5)

Nails

Nail polish can be found at almost any make up store in Korea. The best range for colours on the market? Etude House.  According to some of the foreigners I spoke to, it is always best to spend 3000 won or so extra and get your favorite color in the gel line, as it lasts much much longer. Etude House's Enameliting Gel nail line insures that your fingers will be less prone to chips and breaks throughout the week.
5,500 w ($ 5)




Cleanser and Make up wipes

In this dusty weather, Tony Molly's Dust Out Multi Foam Cleaner and wipes were most popular among some of the foreigner I spoke to. During spring, chemical yellow dust brought across through high winds from China can severely effect allergies and skin. Tony Molly's cleaner aim to clear out any yellow dust or dirt with deep cleaning balls found in the solution. A friend teacher said that this cleanser had really helped her to rid her face of constant yellow heads.
8,000 w ($7) 


  
Moisturizer

Most foreigners suggested lots of different products but argued that a good and often slightly more expensive moisturizer was needed for the cold, dry winter months. I personally use  The Faceshops's Mango Seed Moisturizer. Although it slightly more pricey, I feel that it is well worth it. After my first December in Korea, my skin had began to peel and flake on my cheeks because I had spent so much time under a heater and out of the sun.  The Mango seed moisturizer helps to keep my skin hydrated without being too oily or thick. I would recommend it in the winter months.
24,000 w ($23) 



Can you think of any other products that are better?

Recently, EPIK (the organisation I work for) offered to take 70 native teachers working in our province, on a visit to see Dok-do island. I jumped at the offer of three days off work, a chance to socialize with other teachers, as well as an opportunity to see the highly disputed strip of land for myself.

Dok-do island - a small island lying fairly equally between Japan and Korea's coastline, has been  disputed between the two nations from as early as 1905. Currently South Korea maintains control and territory while Japan claims that the island (named 'Takeshima' in Japanese) is in fact theirs. 

Dok-do island. A view from the jetty.
In my two year stint in Korea I have heard so much about the heavily disputed island of Dok-do. It is said that Koreans will swear their first born on the fact that the island lying in the East Sea belongs solely to Korea.  A high school student explained to me last year, without a whisper of a smile on his face, that anyone who thinks that the island belongs to Japan, is A)  misinformed or B) Possibly a traitor to Korea. Whether you agree with his hard line stance or not, it makes for an interesting debate. Admittedly, the same student was pulled from classes for trying to set a small tree alight on sports day - so its possible that his personality was a tad extreme anyway. Regardless, it left his English teacher and classmates fearfully respectful.

So when I was offered an all expenses paid trip to the famous Dokdo island, I jumped at the opportunity to see what it was all about. Beginning bright and early on Wednesday morning myself along with 70 other teachers boarded a ferry bound for the islands. For most of the three day trip, we were housed and fed on a bigger and neighboring island called - Ulleong-do. Ulleong-do is by far one of the prettiest areas of Korea I have ever seen - fields and fields of pumpkins and flowers surrounded by a blue-blue coast lines and sharp green mountains.

Ulleong-do. Below is a view of the small town as well as one of the very few elementary schools. 
Ulleong-do. Up the cable car looking down on the jetty where we arrived. 
Ulleong-do. Walking up to the viewing point looking across the ocean and island.
One our second full day we were taken to actually see Dok-do. Which in all honesty is more a group of boulders than an actual island. Although we took a 2 hour ferry to reach it, we were only allowed to walk on to the jetty for 20 minutes. The island is heavily guarded by Korean police with guns and shields. We spoke briefly to a guard who explained that they were stationed on the island for up to 50 days at a time before being allowed to return to the mainland. Considering there is no other inhabitants on the island, I couldn't help but feel it must be a little lonely. I left the island wondering what lay up the mountain and off the jetty. We all joked that they must be hiding some kind of crazy explosives hidden in the rocks. Regardless, being on Dok-do certainly helps to convince you of its ownership. I sat there thinking, "This is our island! They cant have it!" and then realized I am not even Korean and really have no say in it. But for that brief moment I was passionately patriotic.

The police on guard at the end of the jetty. We were not allowed to leave the jetty. 
The hour and a half ferry that took us to see Dok-do.
We were also taken to see the Dok-do museum, which holds old maps and illustrations that point to  Korea's claim on the island. Although many of the maps are extremely old and well preserved, I couldn't help but feel that their argument was a little one sided.  Many of the teachers on the trip felt that if the museum had presented both sides of the Korean/Japanese argument, it would have strengthened Korea's claim and position making it seem less one sided or biased.  We had a laugh at a particular re-enactment that saw Japanese fisherman being chased off Dok-do by Korean authorities. The Japanese are depicted as pant-less and balding, while running for their dear lives. Alternatively, the Koreans look quite snazzy, dressed in traditional dress and head gear. 

the re-enactment seen in the Dok-do museum on Ulleong-do island.
So the big question: Does Dok-do belong to Korea? My opinion is that I'm not really sure. What I do know is that its a lot more complicated than I used to think a group of rocks were. There is all kinds of political history, water territory, generational heritage and so on that play a role in determining its ownership. For now, I can safely say that I did not see a single Japanese person on the island or for miles around it. I think, if only for now, Korea can rest easy seeing the their flag flying high along the port of Dok-do.

A big thank you to EPIK for taking us on this amazing experience!

Stopping for a picture on the jetty of Dok-do island.
Everybody loves a long weekend right? Here is home I spent my down time in and around Yeongju and Andong. Sometimes its nice to stay out of Seoul for the weekend!

The famous dish for the area - Andong Jjimdak. A stirfry of  glass noodles, chicken, veggies and potatoes. The sauce is spicy and sweet. A definite recommendation for any visitors to Andong. 


Buddha Birthday weekend. All over Korea thousands upon thousands of lanterns
 were lit to celebrate and signify Buddhas birthday. 
Spent my Saturday with friends, wondering around Andong. This photo was taken in the downtown fresh market in Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. 

A view from the river in Andong. So happy for these sunny days!

Overlooking the water-gates on  the Andong river. 




Last weekend we were lucky enough to get Friday through Tuesday off from school. Seeing as the weather is slowly warming (turned my a/c on for the first time the other day) we decided on a beach weekend.

The giant hands overlooking the seaside of Jeongdongjin.
We spent a 'three and a half women' weekend (3 English teachers and a toddler boy)  in Jeongdongjin, tanning on the beach and eating great food. The famous seaside location is easily accessed by train and can be found along Korea's North Eastern coast. Jeongdongjin is possibly one of the prettiest places I have visited in Korea so far - I would recommend it as a stop along your way for any new teachers.

Jeongdongjin's incredibly blue and clear ocean.
Being a long weekend in Korea, all the tickets to our destination were long sold out and we were stuck getting up for the 3 am train. I know in reality that the sunrise over the beach was worth it, yet somehow I cannot justify sitting confused and coffee-less on a beach - waiting for everyone else to wake up. I am not a morning person.

Jeongdongjin is famous for its sunrise. When we arrived, the beach was packed full of people watching it come up.
Jeongdongjin beach.
Lauren and I on the 5 am train.... looking absolutely beautiful/ exhausted.
However, given a few hours (and some time for the sun to actually rise) the three of us met up with Sharon and little Evan at their hotel for breakfast. They stayed at the Sun Cruise Resort which is basically a cruise liner ship.. parked on a cliff next to the sea. Yes, not in the sea...but next to it. This begs the question - did they build a cruise liner on the cliff? Or did they find an old ship and crane it up there? Also, why was this something that they decided to do?

The hotel Sharon and Evan stayed.
The ship/hotel perched on a cliff.
Regardless of its origin, it was pretty awesome, especially Sharon's room upgrade and view - we were extremely jealous. Although our hotel wasn't quite as fantastic, we did get bottomless bacon and croissants at the buffet breakfast - so everybody won really.

One of my favorite pics taken over the weekend was of Andrea's chip caught in the sunrise. Although I have been teased (to know end) for comparing it to the opening scene of 'The Lion King' , I will say that this was a truly triumphant moment for her. Andrea - as far as I can tell has but two loves in life, Ranch dressing and chips. I have seen her eye's viably light up as she speaks of chasing delivery trucks around town to get original packets of 'honey butter' flavoured chips before everybody else can buy them. I hope this picture immortalizes Pringles Sour Cream and Onion flavour for her.

Andrea's chip.
Here's to a great long weekend in Jeongdongjin and to summer on its way! I hope to spend more weekends like this - lying on the beach with friends and laughing. Here are some more pics of our seaside adventure.

A fun weekend with Lauren, Sharon and Andrea.
Hiding in the cupboard with Evan.
As sad as it was, this time round I decided not to renew my contract at school. As of August 2015 - I will be fun-employed and returning permanently to the Mother City. I have jokingly called this next project in my life 'Cape Town 2.0'.




A much as I am terrified of trying to find a job at home, I know that it is time to move on. I have loved living in Korea, it has taught me so much about growing up, different cultures and even more about saving money. Yet, after two years I think its time to go home and be around my family and friends. As a native teacher in Korea you are forever saying goodbye to old friends and meeting new ones. As exciting as this is, it can become a little wearing at times. I feel happy in my decision to close the book on this fantastic chapter for a while. Although I am sure I will be itching to go again in a year or two.

Only 3 full months as a teacher left.
Mostly, I am exciting for the end of August when I fly out to Malaysia (Langkawi) to meet mini-me, (or more skinny-me) for a week of tanning and cocktails. My sister will be ditching the last week of university to go snorkeling in the sun with me. I am already fully prepared for the two of us to be the palest girls on the island. We are also just a little bit excited about the duty free booze sold on the island.

Langkawi - I can't wait!

Christine and I. Christine with a little hair mustache representing her masculine side.

After  a week with sister smurf, I will be flying to Indonesia for a fortnight, to meet an old university buddy, Gabi for great food, island hopping and volcano watching. I cannot wait to tan on Gili beach and see ancient temples in Yogikarta.

Gili here we come!!

Gabi and I at Maree's 21st. It was a 'Walk of Shame' dress up party - I am useless at dress up and just wore something sparkly.
Gabi and I with Sarah, Justin and Pierre at Graduation.

But don't wave goodbye just yet, I still have 4 more months in this weird and exciting little country. I intend to have as much fun as possible in my remaining time. You can sleep when your dead right? Here's to another few months of teaching, laughing and just a little bit of soju in Korea.