Our next stop along our trip was Chiang Mai. I will admit I wasn't hugely excited to go inland. I had always pictured my tropical island holiday being purely on the beach surrounded by coconut trees and blue-blue waters. What was there really to do inland?

To my surprise, Chiang Mai was one of the best stops we did. It was touristy without feeling like you were packed in with a million other nationalities. We stayed at Manee Guesthouse, which was by far the best place we stayed the entire trip. It was clean, close to everything and had a pool. On arrival the receptionist told us we had been upgraded to a nicer room because all the other standard rooms were full - SCORE!



On our third day in Chiang Mai, we took a tour package that cost us about 900 Bhat for the day (R300/ $30). Considering the variety of things we did, it was well worth the money. The shuttle service fetched us from our hotel, drove us about an hour out to the Maetang river (with a relatively underwhelming stop at an Orchid farm on the way- yawn). The Maetang river area is absolutely beautiful and relatively untouched. It was also a whole lot closer to the boarder of Burma/Myamar than I realized at the time.

First up on our list of things to do was white river rafting. I doubt either of us will quit our days jobs to be professional rafters but hey it was fun all the same. We may have gotten stuck just a couple of times and had to be helped by the guide. After we handed in our oars, part of the package was a buffet lunch followed by elephant ridding.

Ready to raft!
Robyn looking totally shell shocked by the experience hahahaha.

 I know many people believe that the elephant ridding is cruel but this particular experience didn't come across that way to me. Don't get me wrong I am sensitive to the treatment of animals, I have left a few cat cafes in Korea feeling slightly uncomfortable at the conditions. However I did not feel this way with these particular elephants or their handlers. If anything I feel that it brings a broader sense of awareness to elephant conservation in general. The ride itself was beautiful, winding through the cliff side and jungle before turning back and walking through the river, all while the elephant stuck his trunk back looking for bananas from us.



Riders wait on the platforms to get onto the elephnats.

winding past the riverside


Feed me Bananas!

Robyn and I ridding the elephant

The rest of the day saw us hiking up to a natural waterfall and and taking a bamboo raft ride down the still river.

One of the other stand out experiences in Chiang Mai was Doi Suthep which in a nutshell is a Buddhist temple on a mountain. The description doesn't quite sum up the magnificent landmark that was built in 1383. Robyn did mention that there were a 'few' stairs - I ignored her warning thinking I am a young relatively fit 23 year old, not problem!


Boy was I mistaken.
On arrival I took one look at the stair case, rolled my eyes and decided it must eventually lead all the way into the bloody sky. It looked like we would have to walk at just under a 90 degree angle to get there. However after just a few steps, as well as promises to go back to gym after Thailand, we arrived at the beautiful temple. The view across the mountains and city was stunning!









Next up Phuket!


I have finally returned from vacation! So for the next two posts I will cover our fantastic trip to Thailand! I went with a fellow South African teacher from Yeongju, Robyn. We had a pretty great time getting daily massages and eating pad thai noodles for 10 days in the tropical paradise that is Thailand...

Robyn and I finally arrived in Bangkok on Sunday evening, exhausted from our long flight beginning in Seoul, stopping over in Hong Kong and finally arriving at Suvarnabhumi International Airport early evening. By the time we found A and A Guest house on Rambuttri road, we were mightily fed up especially with the taxi driver who ripped us off. Yet, it was nothing that a little green Thai curry and a foot massage couldn't fix!

Breakfast on Rambuttri road


A and A backpackers. Was a nicely situated place, no too noisy and clean. Perfect for what we needed! 

The balcony at A and A guesthouse
One of my favorite things about Thailand is that you can get a massage, practically on the side of the road, for as cheap as 150 Bhat (50 rand or $4.50). I think I took advantage of this almost everyday I was there. My limited experience of massages included oils, aromatherapy and general blissful relaxation. I quickly learned that Thai massages are totally different.
 Frankly, they f***ing hurt. I lay there waiting for relaxation and rubbing to begin only to be greeted by a woman's elbow digging into my spine repeatedly. I felt slightly traumatized after the half hour session, especially when she twisted my upper and lower body in separate directions (ahh!). I remember paying the lady who had repeated jabbed me in the back, like a victim of voluntary assault, thinking there's not a chance in the world that I'm coming back for more.

Yet to my surprise an hour or so later I felt fully relaxed. I think this is the crux of the Thai massages:
 No pain no gain.
From what I can tell, Thai massage aims to improve overall wellness through the manipulation of pressure points to create general relaxation and in many cases to release toxins stored in our muscles. If this is the case - I must have had the most toxin free body by day 10!

On our first full day in Bangkok we visited the Grand Palace. At 500 Bhat each we weren't sure if it was worth the entrance or not. Couldn't we just stand next to it and smile for a photo at the entrance? In the end we decided to just pay up and enjoy the experience, we probably weren't going to be here again right? If you do ever go to Bangkok I think its very well worth a visit. I was fascinated by the intricacy of the tiled walls and gold painted Buddhas. It was quite something to look at. We did chuckle at a Korean tourist next to us who stood unaffected on her cellphone, listening to a song by Maroon 5.










A note to the ladies, you must dress modestly, covering all knees and shoulders. If you didn't realize this-  just like we didn't- there are sarongs for hire quite easily.

Generally I enjoyed visiting Bangkok but probably wouldn't go back again in a hurry. Advice to anyone looking to go to Thailand:  Stop in Bangkok for the shopping and move on to prettier parts of the country after a day or 2.

Nothing like ending a long day with some great Thai food and a coconut cocktail!




Chiang Mai and Phuket next!
One of the coolest things about moving to a brand new continent is that you get to try a bunch a food that you probably wouldn't have glanced at before.

The other night on a teachers dinner, in what seemed like an experimental moment, our co-teachers wanted to see what we thought of cow intestines.In all honesty cow intestines was never something that was particularly high up on my list of things to nibble at. However, when you have a Korean co-teacher watching your every reaction, you have no choice but to smile, chew and swallow. "Try cow intestines..." smiled one of the more senior male teachers in anticipation. Its as if they are setting you up to fail all in the name of a good chuckle.
The two other foreign teachers next to me gave a defeated smile before dropping a small chunk of intestines into their mouths. Clunck, it landed on my tongue.
One of the younger Korean teachers joked, " an intestine a day keeps the doctor away"
I smiled sweetly and swallowed. They were definitely taking the piss.
 In reality, It just tasted like a very chewy, grizzly piece of something. It wasn't terrible.. but it really wasn't great.. and the worst part? There was an entire grill of it still to go!! I feel the pinnacle of the experience came when eating kimchi soup afterwards. A teacher next to me started to explain that the kimchi (fermented spicy cabbage) soup I was eating had been bottled about 3 years ago. "Oh... um... that's interesting..."

Grilled cow intestines
The good thing about all bad experiences, is that there are normally five good ones to compare them too.  A particular one that comes to mind recently is slow roasted rotisserie duck.
It was a treat for the staff on break up day for work done during the semester. At home, duck is outrageously expensive and would never be an entire staff meal. Here it is cooked on rotating stick in front of you, and eaten with an assortment of sauces and wrapped up in lettuce leaves.
Genuinely delicious!

Slow roasted duck
Another great experience a couple of weeks ago was when a friend (Robyn) took me for Vietnamese Shabu Shabu. When I saw the message come through, "We could go for Shabu Shabu?" a number of images went through my head. What the hell was Shabu Shabu I thought? I was in half a mind to message friends at home and sound awfully cosmopolitan," Sorry Skype later.. I'm just popping round to the local Shabu Shabu place"

Robyn cooking up a storm
When I finally arrived at restaurant, it was possibly the coolest dish of the year.
In a nutshell, we were given small pieces of thinly sliced beef, many types of vegetables, a pot of broth and rice paper.  The idea is that you are meant to throw the meat into the broth along with some cabbage and let it cook. The restaurant provides you with a bowl of purple looking water that you are supposed to dip your rice paper into, so that it becomes softer and gelatinous. In essence, you are meant to make a type of spring/egg roll, throwing the sauces, vegetables and meat into the rice paper. The entire experience was delicious.

Before the rice paper is rolled up


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Hi everyone I apologize for taking so long to post again.. I've started to get pretty busy, especially over the festive season.

For a Santa-lover like myself, the Christmas period has always been about family, turkey and warm weather. This year I experienced something totally different. Putting my Christmas tree up on the 1st of December, it begged the question, how does one celebrate the birth of Jesus in a country where most people are either fairly Atheist or Buddhist? It felt a little like trying to have Christmas on Mars.

As it was my first Christmas away from home, it was boldly decided, all old traditions were out, time to make some new ones! I feel that if you try to recreate Christmas in the same way you would at home, you will in all likelihood come off short and a little homesick. The reality is that South Korea doesn't really have turkeys, mistletoe, annoying family members or even shopping mall Santa's. So this year was about finding Christmas in new and interesting ways to celebrate and have a merry ol' time.

The Christmas tree in my apartment
Sanatacon.

The basic plot of Santacon is that everyone goes dressed up in Sanata suits out in Hongdae (a famous foreigner favorite clubbing area in Seoul) for one big pub crawl. The annual event, organised by foreigners on Facebook, draws in over 500 Santas a year. This year, the evening started out in Sinchon, where everyone got down into the Subway and rode over to the Hongdae district (Hongik University stop). Along the way, all the Santas' stood singing Christmas carols at the top of their lungs and scaring many non suspecting Koreans subway riders. I saw a poor elderly man quietly sitting on the subway, only to be horrified when a wave of red flowed into his carriage all at once.

Waiting to take the subway in Sinchon


 The evening was a great success! I was was one of the first to leave.. at the early hour of 6am. This was only after being told that I was behaving like a lame old lady. Tamrin told me that even Maggie Smith would stay out later if she had the chance. The rest of the girls strolled into the hostel at about 9am.
Maggie Smith

Outside Ho bar. Janet (dressed stylishly in an elf suit) asking everyone to shut up so that Santa can play his bag pipes. 
Coral, Tamrin in I in Hongdae park.
Norebang Caroling

Norebang roughly translates to singing room. I suppose there's nothing to get you into the merry season like caroling right?  A bunch of the foreigners in my town got together and sang Feliz Navidad on a giant pull down screen along with microphones an loud speakers. It was pretty unlike any carols by candlelight concert that I had attended but it was still well worth a laugh.

School Raffle

in an effort to teach the boys about Christmas spirit, I decided to raffle off a Santa bag full of candy. Any teachers who has ever taught English in Korea will know that candy is at the very heart of bribery in a  ESL classroom. For the raffle all the students had to do was guess how many pieces of candy were in the bag. Some students wrote 20, some wrote 400. I kid you not, one boy tried to work out of formula for how many pieces would be in it. In the end a 1st grader, Soon Yoon, guessed 285 on the dot. His entire class looked at him with envious eyes as he clutched on to the bag for dear life. I have a feeling he had to keep that well hidden in his dormitory from any lurking second or third graders.


Soon Yoon - The raffle winner!
Christmas Day

On Christmas day, most of the foreigners came together for a traditional Christmas lunch. It was delicious! With roast potatoes, chicken, gravy and even Simon's Christmas cake.

Eating Christmas lunch at Lindsay and Nigel's apartment.
Christmas cake!

A turkey hat!

All in all not such a bad Christmas away from home!! Happy New year everyone!